I'm just getting started with this whole process, and besides one line about sourcing filament in one of the manuals, I haven't seen much discussion of it. What filaments have you printed yours with? Also, looking at photos of existing builds of the Goodman cameras on the web, Instagram etc., I've noticed that there are several non-black plastic prints out there (a yellow, a red, and a marbled white, specifically.) Does anyone know if there are any issues with light-tightness that might arise from using a color other than black for the camera body?
Discussion
Hello, i got my Zone last week with the pinhole system. How is it assembled right? thanks Peter
I'm printing a Zone in black PETG just for the higher glass point of the filament. I'm Phoenix and interior car temps can get to 140F while they are parked, PLA would start to warp and deform at that temp. I'll report back my findings.
I have only printed one body so far in eSUN 3D 1.75mm Solid Blue PETG, 4 perimeters (1.67mm), 25% grid infill, 0.2mm layer height. It is definitely a bit translucent and not fully solid except where there is no infill or minimal like at the film back. I tried to flock the inside with felt tape and that still lets light in, through the adhesive and fabric. I'm kinda bummed, it's a really nice color.. I might still shoot a test roll through it but am shelving it for now.
I am about to print a black PLA one, with maybe 6 perimeters and 30% grid infill, but would have wanted something like PETG's thermal properties. This time I will spraypaint the inside with matte black for a few coats before applying the flocking and that should make it light proof.
If you have an enclosed printer (I don't), then for sure ABS is the way to go and I will be very surprised if it's not fully opaque. Still get the felt tape or flocking tape to line the mount/barrel end and to use as a light seal for the back. I bought J.V. Converting FLOCK-1/BLK1833 on Amazon and it is thin enough to allow the lens to slide in without friction.. so I might actually try to double-layer it and see if that works on the blue body.
I think the back PLA should block light on its own, I'll just have to be careful with it. Pro tip for you or others if you go that route and are worried about leaving it in a car (what most people worry about with a 3D printed functional object): You can use a thin insulated lunch bag for the camera, stuff it under a seat or make sure it's not in direct sunlight, and PLA can survive a car in Arizona at noon in there. Max temperature if I had to guess would be in the 70s F or low 20s C. Much less if you wrap it and then put it inside a padded camera bag. The padding and layers of fabric insulates well. Test it with a solid metal object first and see how hot it feels to the touch.
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